From the counter to the plate
Yes, it's Easter, and many people still traditionally eat fish, at least on Good Friday. Therefore, our choice of topic today is quite fitting. We're using the holiday to once again look behind Lübeck's facades and uncover culinary treasures. For Lübeck ZWISCHENZEILE N , we're visiting places where fish takes center stage – sometimes hearty, sometimes refined, always with a touch of Nordic serenity.
the fish manufactory hans-Peter Krützfeld
At Hüxstraße 23, the air is filled with the wonderful aroma of smoked fish and fresh dill. For over 65 years, the Krützfeld fish manufactory THE place for fish lovers in Lübeck's Old Town. The business is renowned far beyond Lübeck's borders. The name Krützfeld stands for quality, down-to-earth approach, and expertise. Here you'll find excellent fish, and upon request, information about the origin of the fresh produce or a tip for its preparation. The shop is small but exceptionally well-stocked. And it's the last specialty store of its kind in the Hanseatic city. Hans-Peter Krützfeld and his skilled team always radiate good cheer and exude calm and composure.
The recipes for the homemade delicacies are a closely guarded secret. At the standing tables, you can enjoy, for example, mildly pickled fried herring fillets. Or you can opt for a fishcake or the popular fish soup with delicious seafood, fish fillet, and vegetables, cooked on a tomato base – a well-kept secret among many regulars. The weekly changing lunch menu attracts a loyal following to Krützfeld's. Individual requests are also gladly accommodated.
Freshly caught – not cod-twisted
Just a few minutes' walk away on the Untertrave, you'll find another spot where fish takes center stage – albeit in a different form: Fangfrisch , the restaurant at Untertrave 51 , combines maritime flavors with urban style. The interior is clean and modern. The cuisine: Nordic, but not old-fashioned. Here you'll find familiar favorites and surprising dishes, depending on the season. The LÜBECKER LABSKAUS – made according to Grandma's recipe – combines corned beef, beetroot, and herring into a dish that will win over even the most ardent Labskaus skeptics. You absolutely must try it if you're ever on the coast.
The classic choice might be a whole plaice, pan-fried in butter and served with homemade potato salad. The Nordic-style snack with herring butter and wild garlic pesto demonstrates how contemporary tradition can be. And the best part is: there are also "fish" options for vegans. Seaweed, oyster mushrooms, or pickled eggplant can evoke the taste of the sea. This refined selection is not a compromise, but a delicious and unique offering.
The owners of Fangfrisch, Tristan Wilcken and Constantin Teichert, have been friends for years. During a trip to Istanbul, they wondered why it was possible to buy grilled mackerel directly from the boats on the Bosphorus there, but not in Lübeck. Surely that should be possible on the Trave River. They considered it, researched it, planned it, and rented space. Not a fishing boat, admittedly – the idea wasn't so easy to implement. But they did find premises for a small fish restaurant, which has been a success since its opening in 2018 and has already received several awards. In 2022, they won the Seafood Star for the best fish restaurant concept in Germany, and in 2023, the Lübeck Marketing Club's "Platzhirsch Award" in the "Excellent Marketing" category.
Fangfrisch prioritizes regional products wherever possible. The company is a member of the Feinheimisch network , currently the only partner from Lübeck. Those wishing to join this network of restaurateurs in Schleswig-Holstein commit to using at least 60 percent regional ingredients.
Constantin and Tristan offer catering services for events, travel with their food truck, and have been brewing their own draft pilsner, Moinsener, since 2021. They also run an online shop with a lovingly curated selection of drinks and souvenirs. "Don't get bogged down in details" is the motto of these two friendly entrepreneurs, who exude Hanseatic serenity whenever you meet them.
Fish sandwich culture
For a quick bite, Fangfrisch offers its fish sandwiches daily from 12:00 PM to 8:00 PM right next to the bread stand on Drehbrückenplatz – classic with herring or smoked salmon, or with surprising twists like herbs, sprouts, or fermented beetroot. Perfect for on the go or while enjoying the view from the steps overlooking the Trave River, the passing excursion boats and electric boats, and the museum harbor. Sometimes you'll hear salsa dancing here, and it's easy to strike up a conversation with other sun-loving people.
Fresh fish from the boathouse
You can also get freshly caught fish on weekends from 12:00 to 20:00 at another favorite Lübeck spot: the idyllic Bootshaus Marli, . Fangfrisch and the EXEO eV association lovingly restored it in 2023. Besides fish sandwiches, cinnamon rolls, and espresso from a portafilter machine, they also serve "Moinsener Pils" on tap or a glass of chilled white wine. It's a popular spot to stop after a walk or bike ride to enjoy a typical "I can't get enough of the view" in Lübeck: with a panorama of the old town churches against an ever-changing sky. You absolutely shouldn't miss this soul-warming vista!
"You should eat fish more often. It stimulates thinking."
Theodor Fontane
Fish and chips or rösti?
Bettina and Christian Aust, the editorial team of our LÜBECK ZWISCHENTÖNE (Lübeck Interludes), visited Fangfrisch in Lübeck. There, they conducted the ultimate test: fried fish vs. roasted fish – the great crunch competition! Who has the best crunch? Who wins the sound duel? Listen to the delicious contest!
Hello, are there also mussels and carp available?
Dear Mrs. Daschner, I can't say for sure. I've bought mussels there before. I don't know if they're always in stock. It's best if you call them: 0451 72832.