Excellent enjoyment
"Have you ever met somebody who is sunshine in human form?" I discovered this question years ago on a house wall and photographed it. Sometimes life gifts me with such people and their sunshine energy. On a particularly gray December afternoon, when Lübeck's seven towers disappeared into the fog, it happened again: I met Nike Rahlf at the restaurant Unter Freunden for an interview for Lübeck ZWISCHENZEILEN . Her enthusiasm for the concept—and especially for the team—brought sunshine into my day.
A quiet promise at the crow pond
Unter Freunden serves exclusively vegetarian and vegan dishes. It opened its doors in 2024 at Mühlenbrücke 5A , in the basement of a townhouse with a gleaming white facade. The restaurant boasts a uniquely beautiful location on the popular Krähenteich pond, which was created around 1180 by damming the Wakenitz River. From the conservatory and terrace, there is a magnificent view of the St. Aegidien . Now, in December, the terrace remains deserted, and a peaceful stillness settles over the water.
So Nike and I take a seat in the dining room, which exudes the charm of bygone eras. Parts of the interior are listed as historical monuments: the old floor tiles tell stories, the white wooden door with its glass mosaic insert seems like a greeting from another time. A spacious built-in cupboard immediately catches the eye – it houses wine bottles, fermented goods, books – a small treasure trove of good taste. The walls echo the blue of the tiles. Velvet chairs and light-colored tables contribute to the inviting atmosphere.
Sharing is expressly encouraged
“We want to share joy,” says Nike. For the Unter Freunden team, eating is a social event – a moment of togetherness, of closeness. The idea: sitting together at a table, sharing dishes, getting into conversation. Maybe even just sitting in silence. But together. At Unter Freunden, a space was deliberately created that fosters this experience. Hosts instead of waitstaff, food placed in the center of the table. And the idea works.
Nike herself is a hostess through and through. Her passion lies in the service and the drinks. She's particularly fond of the non-alcoholic food pairings. "Taste can be trained like a muscle," she says – and her eyes light up as she talks about textures, drinking resistance, and pH levels. Anyone expecting water or juice here will be surprised. Her enthusiasm is contagious.
Nike has already tasted around 150 of the more than 200 wines on the menu – organic and natural wines from Germany, Austria, and France. She loves sharpening her senses, discerning the differences. But above all, she loves finding the perfect wine for the moment.
Mindfulness on the plate
And the food? Just looking at the menu is enough to whet your appetite. For example, the kohlrabi tonnato, a subtle blend of rustic charm and elegance. Or the silky chestnut cream, accompanied by sautéed oyster mushrooms. Chef Cesar understands his craft as an art of omission and focusing on the essentials. His main courses – like the vegan duck with orange jus and crispy sourdough crumble – speak of a courage to innovate and a respect for the ingredients. Quality, regionality, and seasonality are not empty promises at Unter Freunden. The fact that nothing goes to waste in the kitchen, but rather leftover vegetables are fermented and later revived in new dishes, fits perfectly into this sustainable concept. This creates a culinary mosaic of mindfulness, creativity, and skill. It's no surprise, then, that Unter Freunden was the first Lübeck restaurant to be included in the Slow Food Guide An accolade – but above all, a sign: Here, cooking is done with heart. And with conviction.
Heart and attitude. Perhaps exactly what we all need a little more of in the new year. Who knows – maybe your next favorite story begins right here: at a table by the Krähenteich pond, in the Unter Freunden restaurant .
Among friends