Today we're in Engelsgrube in Lübeck's Old Town for Lübeck ZWISCHENZEILEN to Hamo Sadiq, the manager of Café Marae . Before entering the café, however, we'll take another look around this "pit," which was once inhabited by salt packers, laborers, and crate and beam carriers, but also by shipowners and sailors. It's one of many fascinating streets in the Old Town, where every house has a story to tell. Engelsgrube has always been one of the Hanseatic city's lifelines, leading to the bustling harbor where cogs were loaded and unloaded, cargo piled up, sailors stumbled back on board in the arms of a beautiful woman after a long night, and successful shipowners and merchants, in suits and with walking sticks in hand, kept an eye on things.
The “English pit”
No, this old town street isn't named after angels – although that would be lovely. The name refers to trade with England and the close – not always peaceful – relations with England during the Hanseatic League's heyday. In London, on the north bank of the Thames, the Hanseatic League operated the Steelyard , which existed until 1598. The walls of this trading post also served as a residence and a place for official functions, which is why there was often "hair-raising and other noise," as described in detail in contemporary documents. The German merchants offered the finest Russian furs, wax and honey, iron from Sweden, steel, copper, and specialty woods. Their most important export, however, was the best English sheep's wool. If you'd like to learn more about the Hanseatic League, you can delve into its history European Hansemuseum
Almost every house in Engelsgrube is a listed building. Houses 11-17 contain the Schifferhof , with apartments for widows of ship owners. The entire complex has been a listed building since 1982. Several alleyways branch off from Engelsgrube, including the Bäcker Gang ) with its Renaissance-style shops, the Qualmannsgang ( Qualmann's Alley) with its several Renaissance buildings, and Sievers Torweg (Sievers Gate Lane) . Feel free to step inside: you're welcome to enter the alleyways and have a look around. If you're lucky, you might even strike up a conversation with someone tending their hollyhocks or enjoying a coffee. The Salvation Army is located in the house at Engelsgrube 64, with its impressive stepped gable. And directly opposite is number 59. There – at Café Marae – we're expected.
Café Marae: The place where you belong
Café Marae opened almost six years ago. The founders, Jay and Laura , who are currently on an extended trip with their children, brought the idea and the name back from New Zealand. Marae are meeting places for Māori communities. In the broadest sense, they are places where community is lived and experienced, where everyone can participate and feel at home. Inside Café Marae, there's a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Inviting cushions adorn the windowsills, and there are cozy seating areas. Turquoise details evoke lagoons, bright skies, and the sea.
Turquoise also symbolizes harmony and security, two values that are very close to Hamo Sadiq's heart. He has been the manager of Marae for six months. A young man with sparkling eyes, he explains the restaurant's concept to me. The focus is clearly on organic and seasonal ingredients. The ingredients for the vegan dishes are sourced locally whenever possible. Plastic is avoided. Hamo and his team see themselves as " vegetable rescuers ," because nothing is wasted in the kitchen.
At Marae, the magic happens with love, passion, and creativity. All dishes are based on original recipes. Hamo explains that the team loves trying new things and works on a recipe until everyone is completely satisfied with the taste. The menu changes weekly and offers three freshly prepared dishes. The Marae breakfast is especially popular. Check the Marae website for opening hours.
Be yourself – there are already enough others.
Hamo Sadiq is delighted that many of his guests return time and again, impressed by the excellent taste of the food. The vegan dishes are particularly popular, such as the köfte made with soy "mince" and mushrooms with tomato bulgur. "I've never eaten such delicious meat," a guest recently told Hamo. Everyone is welcome to ask about ingredients and express their wishes. At Marae, it's understood that people follow different dietary patterns or need to find alternatives due to intolerances. Therefore, all dishes are gluten-free, and sweeteners are exclusively date syrup.
The absolute highlight for anyone with a sweet tooth are the raw cakes – currant cheesecake, lemon poppy seed, or chocolate cherry cake, to name just a few. They also try out lots of new things for the cake buffet, depending on the season. To say goodbye, I enjoy a turmeric concoction made with ginger, turmeric, date syrup, pepper, and hot oat milk. Ka kite ano! Goodbye! I'm sure I'll be back soon. If only for the buckwheat pancakes. I have to try them. Perhaps you'd also like to take a little trip to Café Marae?