7 excursion tips for bicycle tours in the Lübeck area
“I want to ride my bicycle; I want to ride it where I like,” sang Freddie Mercury back in 1978 in “Bicycle Race.” The message is more relevant today than ever. The “ City Cycling ” campaign for Lübeck recently came to an end. During the three-week campaign period, Lübeck cycled a total of 742,165 km. A new record, with which we are setting an example in terms of reducing our ecological footprint. Did you also participate in your community?
I agree with Freddy. My bicycle is my favorite mode of transport. I use it for my commute and most of my weekend trips. Lübeck is an excellent city for cycling. Everything is easily and quickly accessible. No need to worry about parking or gas prices. Bike rides keep me fit, clear my head, and I get to see so many beautiful things along the way. My commute along the Wakenitz River is more picturesque than any I've ever experienced.
There's plenty to experience outside the city as well, because the Lübeck area boasts beautiful and diverse landscapes, idyllic lakes for swimming, and cozy farm cafés. In this article for ZWISCHENZEILEN I'd like to introduce you to seven of my favorite bike tours.
7 towers – 7 tips
Bismarck Tower and Riesebusch
Total length: approx. 28 km
This bike tour is only 28 km long, but it includes some challenging sections and is well-suited as a day trip. Along the way, you'll pass the reed-fringed banks of the Trave River , the hilly Riesebusch forest landscape , and enjoy fantastic views from the highest hill in the Lübeck area.
Did you know that on the way to Bad Schwartau you pass through one of Lübeck's oldest industrial areas? I certainly didn't know that the Tremser Teich was created as a fishpond and mill pond as early as the 14th century. Its water power once operated Lübeck's first paper mill.
The history of our city begins at the confluence of the Schwartau and Trave rivers. On the small peninsula known as "Old Lübeck," you'll find the remains of a 9th-century Slavic fortress. Its name, "Liubice" (meaning "The Lovely One"), still does Lübeck proud today.
From the Bismarck Column on Pariner Berg, your gaze sweeps across meadows and hedgerows, over Lübeck Bay to the seven towers of the Old Town. The Bismarck Column dates back to 1902, when similar structures were erected throughout the country in honor of the famous Chancellor. The small restaurant " Pariner Berg " also seems to belong to a bygone era. After all those kilometers, you've certainly earned a slice of cake with a view of Lübeck. The return route leads through the Riesebusch forest . Here, the small Schwartau River meanders between densely wooded hills. A picturesque sight, I think, especially in spring when the anemones are in bloom. The fitness trail is a popular challenge for athletes. Amateur archaeologists might be interested in the Bronze Age burial mounds and the remains of a 13th-century castle.
Schellbruch and Gothmund
Total length: approx. 18 km
My favorite route north of the old town leads through the Schellbruch forest to Gothmund and back through the Lauerholz forest . Over 18 kilometers, you'll experience a diverse natural landscape, perfect for recharging your batteries. A highlight is the picturesque fishing village of Gothmund .
Beyond the castle gate, you'll pass Café Steinhusen at Burgfeld 3 – a local institution. Don't cycle past without a packed picnic basket. The next stop is the Schellbruch nature reserve . This expansive lagoon landscape along the Trave River is a bird paradise with wide reed beds, wet meadows, and deciduous forests. So close to the city, yet feeling so far away, I feel like I can breathe especially deeply here.
The picturesque historic fishing village of Gothmund delights visitors with its thatched-roof houses and lovingly tended front gardens. Old fishing boats still lie moored along the banks of the Trave River, appearing like relics from another era. Gothmund was first mentioned in a Lübeck city council record in 1502. For the return leg of the bike tour, I recommend the Wesloer Weg trail through the wonderfully green, shady deciduous forest of the Lauerholz.
Wesloer Forest and Palinger Heath
Total length: approx. 20 km
This approximately 20 km long bike tour showcases the great diversity of Lübeck and its surroundings: medieval old town and elegant suburban villas. Dense, shady deciduous forests and sandy heathlands.
Beyond the castle gate, you pass the stately townhouses along Roeckstraße. On the eastern edge of the city, the shady beech forest of the Wesloer Forst up. The inner-German border once ran here. Beyond the Waldsee (Forest Lake) and the old Landgraben (Land Ditch) – once the boundary of Lübeck's city limits – the landscape opens up to the Palinger Heide (Palingen Heath) with its sandy soil, meadows, and heather – a sight that reminds me a little of the Lüneburg Heath.
The return journey follows the Wakenitz River , which meanders for kilometers through small marinas, woodlands, waterfront properties, and gardens into the city. It's a unique landscape with a touch of Swedish idyll. For me personally, this is one of Lübeck's most charming spots. Be sure to take the time for a break with a picnic by the water or even a swim!
On the Drägerweg trail to Blankensee
Total length: approx. 32 km
For Lübeck residents, the Drägerweg an institution. A scenic gem. The path follows the Wakenitz River – the "Amazon of the North." The title is well-deserved – the dammed river meanders broadly and gently through dense forests and marshlands. The Löwenstadt memorial stone commemorates the failed attempt by Henry the Lion to found a city here in 1157, when he hoped to challenge the burgeoning Lübeck. At this point, however, the Wakenitz is barely navigable. Henry's Löwenstadt was never much more than a pipe dream.
Shortly after, you leave Drägerweg and drive to Klein Grönau , where, opposite the small "wayside chapel," you'll find the former leper house, now a guesthouse . In the 14th century, Lübeck's lepers found care or their final resting place here – as devout Christians, this was their right. At the same time, the authorities wanted to keep them as far away from the city center as possible.
The road "Am Sonnenberg" leads you to Blankensee . Shortly before reaching the lake, turn left onto the path "Seekrug" and then right again onto the hiking trail. You'll reach a bench on the hilltop between two farms. It's an ideal spot for a picnic with a view over the small valley and the lake, which provides shelter for numerous water birds. The path "Tüschenbecker Mühle" leads you down the hill to your right and through the forest back to Lübeck.
Picnic and swimming at Klempauer Hof lake
Total length: approx. 28 km
This 28km route is perfect for a summer evening stroll. The path leads from St. Jürgen via Vorrade and Wulfsdorf. Hilly, sun-drenched fields and hedgerows, along with wide horizons, characterize the landscape south of the university district. The destination is Klempauer Hofsee in Beidendorf – an idyllic forest lake with a DLRG (German Lifesaving Association) bathing area and an excellent spot for a picnic.
The lake water remains pleasantly refreshing even in the height of summer. The Schilfkate bistro offers delicious snacks and cool drinks with a lake view. After a bike ride, a swim, and perhaps a slice of tarte flambée, it's the perfect place to relax in the deck chairs.
The return route on the bike tour then leads via Krummesse and the Elbe-Lübeck Canal.
On the old salt road to Lake Lankau
Total length: approx. 60 km
This day trip of approximately 60 km is particularly well-suited for warm summer days. The route follows the old salt road along the former Stecknitz – today's Elbe-Lübeck Canal. There's plenty to see along the way: picturesque farming villages steeped in centuries of history, stately manor houses, and idyllic forest lakes. Set off as early in the morning as possible and allow enough time for all the sights along the route.
You leave the city along the Canal Trave, cross the Trave River on the towpath bridge, and from then on follow the Elbe-Lübeck Canal. As early as the 14th century, the Stecknitz River was made navigable with the help of several locks. A canal was cut through near Mölln, creating a shipping route between the Elbe and the Baltic Sea. From 1398 onwards, valuable salt from Lüneburg was transported via the canal to Lübeck, from where it was shipped for trade with Scandinavia and the Baltic region. The historic salt warehouses at the Holsten Gate still bear witness to this today.
You cycle along this historically significant route on sandy paths through expansive meadows and forests, fields and moors, which provide a home for herons, storks and many birds of prey.
Our first stop is the small town of Krummesse with its distinctive church and the site of a former castle, which was abandoned in the late Middle Ages because the local knights were unwilling to become vassals of Lübeck's rising citizenry. You can learn more about the town's history here .
In Berkenthin, the Church of St. Mary Magdalene overlooks the Stecknitz Valley from a small hill. With its surprisingly rich interior and 14th-century murals, it's definitely worth a visit. In neighboring Behlendorf, there's not only a popular swimming lake with restrooms and restaurants – it's also worth mentioning that the village was the final home and resting place of the Lübeck writer and Nobel laureate Günter Grass . (Perhaps you'd like to do the Tour de Grass ?) My personal highlights of this route, however, are the next two stops.
Below the sleepy village of Lankau, you'll find a wonderful, clean, emerald-green forest lake. An oasis of tranquility that you absolutely shouldn't miss. Not far from Lake Lankau, a small culinary highlight awaits you on your way back. In a lovingly restored farmhouse on the shores of Lake Ankersee, Anja and Christoph Brandt run a café with the clever name Brandtschatz Café . The history of this establishment can be traced back to 1600.
In summer, you can sit here under fruit trees overlooking the Ankersee lake. Anja conjures up fantastic cakes and tarts. My current favorite is her buttermilk cake with blueberries – refreshingly summery and not too sweet.
Now it's time to head back. If you'd like a shortcut, take the train from Mölln or Ratzeburg.
On the Drägerweg trail to Ratzeburg and on to Küchensee lake
Route length: approx. 34 km
From Lübeck to Lake Ratzeburg. This approximately 34 km long bike tour can certainly be completed in half a day, but is better suited as a day trip.
You start on the Drägerweg trail along the Wakenitz river. Dense deciduous forests flank its course and are reflected in the calm waters, only occasionally interrupted by the bow waves of some canoeists.
You'll pass attractions like Müggenbusch and Absalonshorst as well as the memorial stone of the Lion City Rothenhusen Ferry House is a particularly worthwhile rest stop about halfway along the route . This quaint half-timbered house stands on a small island between Lake Ratzeburg and the Wakenitz River's outflow. It boasts a history spanning over four hundred years, having been founded and fortified by the city of Lübeck in 1595 as a customs station and ferry house. Today, it operates as a café and restaurant.
The trail continues along the hilly eastern shore with its deep deciduous forests and sweeping views across the region's second-largest lake. This area was once a border zone and notorious for East German agents who allegedly crossed the inner-German border here under cover of night.
The island town of Ratzeburg is situated in the middle of Lake Ratzeburg and is connected to the mainland by three causeways. Originally a Slavic settlement and later a bishopric, Ratzeburg boasts a history spanning almost 1000 years. A stroll through the old town and a visit to the cathedral are highly recommended, not least because of the town's beautiful natural setting.
This could be the end of your trip. If you'd like more, you can cycle around the Küchensee lake. Surrounded by steep hills and dense deciduous forest, you can easily spot fully grown pike in the crystal-clear water, lurking among the roots, waiting for prey.
On the southern shore of Küchensee lake are two former watermills. The former fulling mill now operates as the Farchauer Mühlencafé (Farchau Mill Café) , ideal for a break with delicious coffee and cake. The second mill is a lovingly restored former paper mill, now part of the luxury holiday resort Zeit am See (Time by the Lake ).
Before you push your bike onto the train to Lübeck in Ratzeburg, I'd like to point out one last attraction, just in case. Whether you're coming from near or far – if you're looking for ice cream in Ratzeburg, head to Pelz parlor for five generations . If delicious ice cream treats are something you crave on hot summer days, you should definitely treat yourself to a little something here during your bike ride.
Now it's your turn.
Whether you come from Lübeck, live in Leipzig or are currently studying in London: what are your favorite bike tours and why?
Brilliantly described. I wish you good health.
Thank you so much, and thank you as well!
Wonderfully written! It makes you really want to go exploring (driving)!
That was our intention too, dear Anja :) Hopefully you will soon have the opportunity to try out some of the routes yourself.