Lübeck and Lüneburg – two North German gems with many connections to this day. The close historical ties between these two Hanseatic cities are reflected in the Old Salt Road . This medieval trade route, which once made both cities wealthy, is now a popular long-distance cycling route. The route is approximately 116 km long and mostly flat. We dedicated three days to the Old Salt Road. For us, two overnight stays along the way were ideal. Mölln and Lauenburg are two cultural highlights that deserve a little more attention. Here is our report for the ZWISCHENZEILEN .
The Legend of Lüneburg
What was the story behind the Old Salt Road again? According to the Lüneburg founding legend, a hunter was once on the trail of a wild boar. He followed her to a forest clearing and surprised her after she had bathed in a shallow pool. There she lay sleeping, her fur shining white as snow. That was the salt from the Lüneburg brine spring. It had crystallized in the wild boar's black fur after her bath.
The discovery of salt made Lüneburg rich.
Lübeck, as the Queen of the Hanseatic League, famously built its wealth on trade across the North and Baltic Seas. Herring, among other things, arrived in Lübeck from Northern Europe, where it was preserved with Lüneburg salt. Due to Christian fasting regulations, fish was the only food eaten on Fridays during the Middle Ages. Both Hanseatic cities profited handsomely from this lucrative trade.
The journey of Lüneburg salt to Lübeck was long and arduous. The roads were poor, and the oxcart trip was not only lengthy but also dangerous. Highway robbery was commonplace. The city of Lübeck had to maintain order with its own military. At the same time, efforts were made to shorten the journey by building a canal. To this end, starting in the 14th century, the Stecknitz and Delvenau rivers were gradually made navigable and connected by an 11-kilometer-long canal.
Following in the footsteps of the Stecknitz boaters
We set off on a Friday afternoon. Our first stop on the Old Salt Road Mölln, with Till Eulenspiegel .
After many sunny, hot days, this Friday was cool and windy. The gusty south wind drove rain-laden clouds before it. We crossed the Trave River via the towpath bridge, passed the high-rise buildings of Moisling, the Büssau lock, and finally the romantic little village of Krummesse. I like the varied landscape in the south of our city.
Small woods alternate with green meadows where horses graze. Storks stand one-legged in the tall grass.
You'll often see herons patrolling the reeds. Your journey is accompanied by the crunch of sand under your tires and the chirping of crickets. In Berkenthin, the church is worth a visit. Perched on a hill above the village, it overlooks the canal and is surrounded by ancient graves. Its interior surprises visitors with its artistic murals.
A short detour to nearby Behlendorf is also worthwhile. The Lübeck-born writer and Nobel laureate Günter Grass not only spent the last 30 years of his life here, but also found his final resting place here. If you'd like to follow in the footsteps of the Nobel laureate by cycling or hiking from Lübeck to Mölln, embark on the Tour de Grass .
On hot days, Behlendorf Lake, with its lifeguard-supervised swimming area, offers a welcome respite from the heat. This Friday, however, we were in a hurry. The sky had darkened, the wind picked up, and rain showers began to fall. Shortly before reaching Mölln, the clouds unexpectedly parted, and everything glowed orange in the warm light of the sunset. As we circled Ziegelsee Lake and reached Mölln's old town, a perfect rainbow arched over the lake.
Mölln, the town of Till Eulenspiegel
With the construction of the Elbe-Lübeck Canal, traffic along the Salt Road increasingly shifted to the water. This shortened travel time. The Stecknitz boatmen's guild was formed. On their journey to Lübeck, they were obliged to stop at the many locks and eat, drink, and spend the night in the taverns, which, fittingly, were also run by the lockmasters. These lockmasters, in turn, were employed and paid by the Hanseatic city of Lübeck. I had booked a room at the SeidenStraße Hotel & Restaurant .
For a change, we set up camp following in the footsteps of Marco Polo.
The guesthouse, run by three Afghans, turned out to be a pleasant surprise. We slept soundly. After a breakfast prepared especially for us in the Persian-Afghan restaurant, our extremely friendly host sent us off to the second day of our trip.
The sun shone from a cloudless sky, promising a hot late summer day. Mölln's old town sits on a peninsula between two lakes. The St. Nicolai Church, built on a hill, is visible from afar. We followed its ringing bells to the market square, flanked by beautiful half-timbered houses, where the Old Town Hall and the Eulenspiegel Fountain are located. The tourist information office and the Mölln Museum are housed in the Old Town Hall. As overnight guests in the town, we received a combination ticket for the two main museums for just €4, which I highly recommend.
The Mölln Museum fills a thematic gap between Lübeck and Lüneburg. It is dedicated to the aforementioned Stecknitz boatmen, who transported Lüneburg salt in barges called "Prahmen." The journey took up to three weeks. Their destination was the salt warehouses at the Holsten Gate. Their guild was based in the Stecknitz boatmen's guildhall at Hartengrube 27.
The Eulenspiegel Museum tells the story of the famous jester who traveled throughout Germany in the 14th century. He satirized social inequalities. Under the guise of a prankster, he was able to hold a mirror up to people of all classes and backgrounds with impunity.
Lauenburg on the Old Salt Road
The sun was at its zenith as we embarked on Old Salt Road Lauenburg on the Elbe River, the southernmost town in Schleswig-Holstein and the former residence of the duchy of the same name.
The Elbe River forms the natural border with Lower Saxony here. On its northern bank, it has created a nearly 70-meter-high cliff. Above the town stands the castle, which was founded as Polabenburg in 1181. Little remains of it today, but the view is magnificent. Below the castle, the old town lies along the Elbe's banks. To the left, the canal flows into the Elbe, which here flows gently towards the North Sea as a mighty river. From the opposite bank, the wooded plain of Lower Saxony stretches to the horizon, where we thought we could make out the towers of Lüneburg in the haze.
We pushed our bicycles along the cobblestone streets of the old town, admiring the fantastic half-timbered houses with their delicate wooden decorations, adorned with climbing rose bushes. Dazzled by the soft backlighting of the sunset, we passed lavishly set tables, gazing in disbelief. The people of Lauenburg sat peacefully enjoying their evening meal and conversation. Right in the middle of the street. Our receptionist explained that once a year, they move their private lives out onto the street to give newcomers the opportunity to mingle with the long-time residents. We had chosen precisely this day for our visit. What luck!
We stayed at the " Gästehaus von Herzen " (Guesthouse of the Heart) – opposite St. Mary Magdalene Church in the heart of the city. From our cozy double room, we had a view of the central church square, the Elbe Shipping Museum, and the bell tower. The breakfast room, which is a café during the day, offers a wonderful view of the Elbe River.
on a Sunday in Lower Saxony
On Sunday morning, the church bells of Lauenburg rang out for us as we crossed the Elbe bridge and entered Lower Saxony on the other side. We took a short break there. A narrow path led to a small, overgrown peninsula below the dike.
The gurgling of the waves mingled with the sound of the church bells.
From here you have the most beautiful views of Lauenburg – and of our home Schleswig-Holstein.
We were cycling along the crest of a perfectly straight dike beside the Elbe Lateral Canal when piano music and gospel singing jolted us out of our thoughts. That was the last thing we had expected. We followed the music. Beyond a row of bushes, a forest lake came into view. Benches had been set up on the opposite shore, where several hundred visitors had taken their seats.
A large cross stood on the lakeshore, flanked by a gospel choir, a band, and a brass band. Pastors in long black robes stood knee-deep in the water. Children played among them. We had unexpectedly stumbled upon the baptismal celebration at Scharnebeck Island Lake . Twenty-eight children and teenagers were to have been baptized there that Sunday. With a coffee in hand, we sat down and enjoyed the cheerful atmosphere for a while.
The end of the journey
In the early afternoon, we reached the Hanseatic city of Lüneburg the end point of the Old Salt Road . We visited the exceptionally beautiful Lüne Abbey, founded in 1172, which represents an impressive example of North German Brick Gothic architecture. Time seems to have stood still in the idyllic abbey garden.
The charming university town of Lüneburg itself deserves a longer visit. Not only because of its numerous historical connections, exploring which is like taking a journey back in time to our own city's past. The pretty old town, with its largely intact medieval cityscape and impressive gabled and half-timbered houses, deeply impressed us. In the picturesque waterfront district, opposite the Old Crane, lies a replica of a "salt barge" – one of those boats on which salt was transported to Lübeck via the Stecknitz Canal.
I would also recommend a visit to Lüneburg's town hall. The so-called "Old Chancellery" seems to have hardly changed for centuries. In a place of honor, a shoulder bone is displayed in a small glass case. It is attributed to the wild boar mentioned at the beginning, whose white fur guided the people of Lüneburg to what would later become the saltworks. This saltworks became the foundation for the city's subsequent wealth – and also helped Lübeck to prosper.
On this multi-day hike or bike tour along the Old Salt Road, you will become more sensitive to your surroundings. And you will have the opportunity to find yourself.
I find it extremely relaxing to view the journey as the destination.
Further reading
: Old Salt Road: SH Tourism
Long-distance cycle route Old Salt Road: From Lüneburg to Lübeck | NDR.de – Guide – Travel – Cycling tours