Trip to Schlutup

Schlutup again , Lübeck's smallest district, which isn't automatically on every Lübeck trip to-do list, but which I personally really like. Schlutup can be reached from Lübeck by bike in about 30 minutes, or by bus from Lübeck's central bus station at the main train station.

I highly recommend an early summer excursion to this former fishing village on the Trave River, as it holds many hidden treasures that aren't immediately obvious. For many decades, Schlutup was a stronghold of the fish industry. Numerous smokehouses were established as early as the 19th century. In the village center, between Schlutuper Kirchstraße and Hinter Höfen, several old fishermen's houses have been preserved to this day.

A particularly beautiful view over the Trave river can be enjoyed at the Schlutup harbor , which you can easily reach via the Mühlenweg (Mill Path).

St. Andrew's Church, Schlutup

In the heart of the village, the former fishermen's church, built in the Brick Gothic style, is well worth a visit. It was first mentioned in 1425. Until 1436, the church belonged to the parish of St. James. The limestone baptismal font dates from the 13th century. The church tower still serves as a landmark for boatmen and sailors on the Trave River. I enjoy sitting in quiet contemplation in the church interior, which is almost shaped like a Hanseatic cog, and letting the light streaming in through the stained-glass windows wash over me.

Incidentally, the glass artist Curt Stoermer also created the memorial to returning prisoners of war under the Lübeck Town Hall arcades, which you've probably already noticed. A short digital tour will give you a first impression of the church's interior.

It doesn't get any greener than this.

Schlutup lies directly adjacent to the Lübeck city forest, Lauerholz. It is surrounded by wetlands and moorland lowlands. Numerous opportunities for hiking or cycling await you. For example, around the idyllic Schwarzmühlenteich pond, in the middle of which runs the state border between Schleswig-Holstein and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and which flows into the Schlutuper Wiek bay. Or in the extensive Palinger Heide nature reserve. For long stretches, you'll hardly encounter another soul on the narrow sandy path. Pines, birches, fields, and heathland alternate. The call of a jay accompanies you.

Nothing here now recalls the time of the inner-German border, yet this part of German history is ever-present in Schlutup and the surrounding area. Germany's northernmost border crossing to the former GDR was located here. The border ran from the Baltic Sea to Lake Ratzeburg and along long stretches of the Trave and Wakenitz rivers. Under the so-called "small border traffic" regulations, West Germans living in the border region were permitted to enter the GDR.

Schlutup border documentation site

Housed in a former customs building, the museum, initiated by private individuals in 2004, documents the division of Germany. The border documentation center sees itself as a vibrant place of learning and a site for historical and political education. The collection and diverse documentation illustrate the border situation here up until the opening of the border in 1989. I immerse myself in the many photographs, which, for example, show the border fortifications of the time. However, I am particularly moved by the numerous everyday objects that can be discovered here: toys, passports, school notebooks, awards, medals. While the museum certainly touches on the broader political context, it makes even more apparent what it meant to have lived and worked daily at this inhumane border. The model on display illustrates the layout of the border fortifications at that time.

Schlutup was a dead end. Beyond the Schlutup border station were two more houses, and then officially the territory of the GDR began. White posts with red tops – nicknamed "matchsticks" – marked the inner-German border. There was no way to go any further east. Until November 9, 1989. Everyone remembers where they were on that happiest day for our country. Or the moment they learned what the night had brought. Naturally, a significant part of the exhibition is dedicated to the opening of the border. In the days and weeks that followed, the streets of Schlutup were jammed from morning till night. Hugs, spontaneous invitations, queues at the distribution points for welcome money, Trabants. Joyful moments. This weekend marks the 77th anniversary of the end of World War II. Everything is connected. In the current political climate, this has become very clear to me once again.

Fried herring with a view

After this journey into Germany's divided past, it's definitely time for a break. Please take a seat in the garden of the Schlutup Sailing Club's restaurant at Mühlenweg 4, overlooking the Schlutup Bay, the blue water, and the sailboats. Or inside, the dining room looks exactly as it should: maritime details, checkered tablecloths, and a down-to-earth North German ambiance. Whether you choose plaice fillet or Neptune platter, the fish comes mostly from the Trave River and the Baltic Sea. This is the perfect way to spend a weekend in May. See you soon for the next ZWISCHENZEILEN ." I'll be back with another restaurant recommendation from Lübeck's Old Town.