On the road in the north of the Old Town
We start into the admittedly no longer very young 2024 for the Lübeck ZWISCHENZEILEN by taking a walk along Große Burgstraße. It provides access to the Old Town, which is surrounded by water, from the Burgtor Castle Gate and thus from the North. The Castle Gate was built between 1444 and 1448 under the rule of Duke Adolf VIII of Schauenburg and Holstein.
Große Burgstrasse is often underestimated. Especially by people who live here in Lübeck. At first glance, it is actually not as picturesque as other alleyways in the Old Town. However, the street has developed very positively in recent years. New stores, galleries and cafés enrich the offer. It’s worth keeping your eyes open when you’re out and about. As is always the case in life. Otherwise you might miss out on the best!
If you need a motto for the new year, please leave the beaten track every now and then. Go too far and have a look around.
Tonfink Kulturcafé und Bar
We start opposite the Hospital of the Holy Spirit. At Große Burgstraße 46, there is a very special favourite place for all lovers of good entertainment: theTonfink. A cultural meeting place that regularly hosts live music evenings, readings and art exhibitions. The atmosphere is relaxed and laid-back. I really like the fact that I can experience well-known singer-songwriters and newcomers at Tonfink. René Kragl and Carolin Peter are well connected in the artists’ scene worldwide and also bring artists from overseas to Lübeck. You don’t have to pay admission, but, please, show your appreciation by contributing to the hat box, which is not a hat but a pug figure.
My personal highlight is the table quiz, which takes place on the last Friday of every month. Quizmaster Albrecht leads the evening. True to Goethe’s motto “I know a lot, but I want to know everything”, you can test your knowledge. The Tonfink is usually filled to capacity for the quiz evening. A reservation is therefore advisable.
La Cucina
Katja Hagen offers in her La Cucina at Große Burgstraße 40 a yummy home-made breakfast. You will discover many lovingly placed little things on cupboards in the elongated room. La Cucina is also known for its sumptuous and high-quality grazing-style picnic boxes. Here the eye is definitely involved and everyone simply grabs something from the snack box. I particularly like to order a box for a pause at the Trave embankment or for my tour with an e-boat. Although: it’s currently a little too cold out there for that. It’s also worth taking a look at La Cucina’s calendar: if you happen to be in Lübeck at a good time, you might be tempted by one of Katja’s cooking courses.
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Fraj organic hairdresser
Planning a visit to the hairdresser during your visit to Lübeck? Yes, absolutely! The organic hairdresser Fraj, at Große Burgstraße 30 is known for its ecologically sustainable philosophy and the exclusive use of organic products. On Museum Night 2023, I stumbled into this very special hairdressing salon by chance and was immediately impressed.
Rebekka Jeß and Albertina Flaverny talk to me passionately about their work. A sustainable lifestyle is very important to both women. Over the years, they have developed an increasing awareness of sustainable approaches both privately and professionally. Hair care should make a contribution to well-being. And you’ll feel at home here straight away. The lovingly designed interior reflects the attitude of the hairdressers: handcrafted furniture and Art Nouveau lamps. An impressive chandelier. A cupboard from a household clearance.
Comfortable chairs that were once used by NDR. Heavy upholstered furniture. This mix simply fits. A whole story can be told about each piece. And then there is also art on the walls. Creative people from Lübeck and the region take the opportunity to present themselves in the salon. Dana Klak , for example, is currently presenting her colorful works.
Studio 1
Studio 1 at Große Burgstraße 34 is a true paradise for vinyl and CD lovers. The owner Petra Willems offers a wide range of records from the 60s to the 80s.
Rock classics, independent music, classical, hip-hop, German schlager. you can also find German Schlager and a large selection of classical records here. Petra Willms actually has something for literally every taste. I must warn you: if you reach out for the first box to browse a little, you won’t find an end. Lots of discoveries and memories! I had to save up for an LP for a really long time in the 1970s. 20 DM! You had to think carefully about which record you bought.
And then that feeling of putting the record on: inspecting the cover, taking the record out of the sleeve and putting it on. The slight crackling sound when the needle is applied. Vinyl stays alive. Maybe you’ll find a treasure in Studio 1!
Art in the passageway
At the end of our little walk, I recommend a detour to the “Struß Thorweg“. This is one of the many alleyways in Lübeck’s Old Town. People have been taking this shortcut from Große Burgstraße to Rosenstraße for over 700 years. Artist and architect Stephen Perry designed the passageway as a living representation of the craftsmanship of the past. The photographs show scenes from the late 19th century. The motifs were printed directly onto ceramic tiles using a special process – the dot-matrix printing process in indigo blue.
When you arrive at Rosenstraße, don’t forget to take a look at the Rosengang. I like the small Rosengang alleyway at any time of year. Also when it is decorated with large red stars. This peaceful place offers you a unique moment of tranquillity.
We also recently visited the Rosengang for our podcast Lübeck ZWISCHENTÖNE to visit the smallest museum in Lübeck. Curious? Then listen to the episode here.
